Delta 46-715 Instruction Manual Page 16

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16
VEE GROOVES
Cutting the vee groove demands much the same technique as
the bead, except that the skew is hinged straight into the work
without rotation (Fig. 51). Only one-half of the vee is made at a
time, and one, two, or more cuts may be needed on each side
to obtain the desired shape. As in all cutting with the skew, use
the bevel next to the cut as a fulcrum. Be careful not to allow
the full edge of the chisel to catch and cause a run. Vee
grooves can also be made with the toe of the skew, in the
same manner as squaring an end.
LONG CUTS
Long cuts are usually either convex or straight-tapered
surfaces. With a convex surface, the method used in making
the finishing cut is shown in Fig. 52. Turn the gouge on the tool
rest so that it will be inclined in the direction that it will move.
The bevel is at approximately a 45 degree angle to the work,
and the center point of the cutting edge is the contact point
with the wood. As the cut progresses toward and around the
end of the curve, the handle is gradually raised and swiveled
to the right (Fig. 53) in order to maintain the angle between the
grind and workpiece.
Figs. 54 and 55 show the cutting of a long taper with a skew.
The operation differs from smoothing a cylinder only at the
start of the cut. The starting cut should be made with the heel
(Fig. 54) to prevent the tool from digging into the work. As the
tool moves down the work, the chisel can be pulled back to
allow the center point of the cutting edge to cut. However, the
full taper can be made with the heel. Be careful not to cut too
deeply at the center of the taper. The direction of cutting is
always downhill.
COVE CUTS
Second to forming a perfect bead, the cove or concave cut is
the most difficult to master. This cut is made with the gouge,
where the size of the tool depends on the size of the cut. Push
the gouge directly into the work to remove the surplus stock
(Fig.56).
Fig. 51
Fig. 52
Fig. 53
Fig. 54
Fig. 55
Fig. 56
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