Delta 36-322L Operations Instructions download pdf (Page 6)

side skirt

skirt

leg

stretcher

side stretcher

shelf

stile nailers

bottom nailer

back bottom

nailer

side

back

filler

corner

block

fence

top assembly

push bar

stand

10 Summer 2006

sub-top

mid-top

front edging

top

base plate

bar sides

bar bottom

bar face

guide

sacrificial

board

Figure 3

Figure 2

Figure 4

Completed Project

between the two side assemblies so that

the bottom edge of the stretcher sits 4

inches above the base of the legs; attach

with glue and pocket hole screws. Repeat

for the remaining skirt and stretcher.

d. Cut 1

⁄2-inch-square notches on each

corner of the shelf. Attach the shelf to the

tops of the stretchers.

e. To create a nailing surface for the sides

and back, attach stile nailers flush with the

face of the legs; attach the bottom nailers

and back bottom nailer to the top of the

shelf, flush with the stile nailers.

f. Secure the sides and back to the nailers

and skirts using glue and brads.

g. Install the fillers between the legs at

the top of each side assembly so that the

top edges of the fillers are flush with the

top edges of the side skirts.

h. To create an attachment surface for the

top, cut triangular corner blocks from a 1 x

4 poplar board, and attach them in the

upper corners of the stand.

Step 6: Final assembly.

a. Center the top assembly on the stand, and

secure it by driving screws up through the

corner blocks.

b. Fill all nail holes, sand; finish as desired.

c. Position the push bar in its groove.

d. Insert an elevator bolt and bar knob into

each of the four holes in the bases of the

fence assemblies; slide the bolts into their slots.

When using the router table, align the faces of

the two fences using a straightedge.

Project #SU062 n

Finished Dimensions,

Installed:

Height: 39

⁄2 inches

Depth: 24 inches

Width: 32 inches

9" 9"

12"

Layout Detail

back edge

1 1/2"

3 1/2"

2 9/16"

1 1/4"

Side View of Fence

bar knob

elevator bolt

face

assembly

forms slot

for elevator

bolt

slide side

slide sides

slide bottom

slide face

face back

face spacer

face

face back

slide bottom

Figure 1

THE WOOD POST 11

weekend project

Garden Bridge

This classic project will add a striking feature to your yard or landscape.

c. Measure 13 inches from the inside faces of both outside joists

for placement of the other two. Attach with 16d galvanized nails.

d. Check the assembly for square by measuring diagonally at the

corners, and adjust as needed until the two diagonal measurements

are equal.

Step 2: Prepare the location for installation of the bridge.

a. Lay out, stake, and square the location of the four posts. The

centers of the posts are 94

⁄4 inches apart in length and 44

⁄4 inches

apart in width.

b. At each marked corner, dig a hole that measures approximately

12 inches square and 22 inches deep. Add sand to the bottoms of

the holes until they are 18 inches deep.

Step 3: Secure the posts.

a. Place the posts in the holes, and use a level to check for plumb

both vertically and horizontally. Uses stakes and scrap lumber to

temporarily secure each post, and add enough dry concrete mix

to the holes to stabilize the posts. Tamp the concrete mix in place.

b. Mix enough wet concrete per the manufacturer’s instructions to

fill the balance of the holes. Pour concrete into the holes until it is

just above ground level, and then trowel the top of the concrete to

slope it away from the posts in all four directions. Let the concrete

cure overnight.

Step 4: Install posts and cleats.

a. Using 16d galvanized nails and lag screws, attach the posts to the

joist/box sill assembly (see Figure 2). Drive in the top or bottom

nail first, and then use a level to check each post for plumb (vertically

level) before driving in the remaining nails.

b. Use a framing square to scribe a line on the interior faces of each

post at the point where the post meets the top of the joist; these

lines will allow you to position wood to support the decking.

c. Align the tops of the cleats with the scribed lines. Attach with

construction adhesive and 2

⁄2-inch outdoor wood screws.

Step 5: Add the decking.

a. Lay an end piece of decking against a pair of end posts with the

decking overhanging the box sill and the outside joists by

⁄4 inch on

each side.

b. Scribe the locations of the posts on the piece of decking (see

Figure 3).

c. Use a jigsaw to cut a 3

⁄8-inch-deep notch for each end post

(see Figure 3, Detail A). Repeat this process for the other end piece

of decking.

d. Use a drill/driver with the appropriate bit to attach the end decking

to the joist/box sill assembly with 2

⁄2-inch outdoor wood screws.

e. Use 16d nails as spacers between the end piece and second piece

of decking at both ends of the bridge. Attach each second piece of

decking with outdoor wood screws.

f. Install the two center pieces of decking next by repeating Steps

5a–3e. Cut the notches for the center posts to fit, about 1

⁄16 inches

ou don’t need to have a babbling brook in your backyard to

find the perfect location for this simple, yet elegant, garden

bridge; build it over a small pond, uneven terrain, or even a

low patch. The bridge shown is 8 feet, 4

⁄2 inches long, but it can

span a maximum length of 11 feet, 10 inches with the 2 x 8 boards

laid out at 16 inches on center. If you would like to build a longer bridge

that is supported only at its ends, we suggest that you first check out the

American Wood Council Web site at www.awc.org/technical/spantables

to verify the size of the joists needed to support your desired span.

Instructions:

General: Cut all parts as you assemble the project, using the Cut

List as a guide and adjusting as needed for fit. Note that it is best to

purchase treated wood a few weeks before you plan to use it. Stack

your treated boards, with spacers, in a dry place and turn on a fan.

Allow the boards to air dry. Also note that even when it is no longer

damp, pressure-treated wood tends to be quite heavy. So it’s better

to assemble this bridge on-site rather than to build it in the shop and

then transport it to its final location.

Step 1: Make the joist/box sill assembly.

a. Use a framing square to verify and cut one end of each joist so that

it is square. If any of the boards is out of square, trim only the amount

necessary to form a right angle. (Boards usually measure slightly

longer than labeled to allow for squaring. For example, an 8-foot-long

board usually measures 96 inches plus.) Cut and square the other

joist ends so that all measure 96 inches long.

b. Use 16d galvanized finishing nails to attach the two box sills to

the two outside joists (see Figure 1).

PHOTOGRAPH: JOHN O’HAGAN / STYLING: LEIGH ANNE MONTGOMERY

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Delta 36-322L Operations Instructions Page 6

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