Delta 36-322L Operations Instructions download pdf (Page 5)

THE WOOD POST 9

feature project

8 Summer 2006

feature project

portable router by itself is a versatile

tool. But you won’t know everything

it can do until you mount your router

to a table. When you flip a router upside

down, mount it, and add fences, you basi-

cally turn it into a shaper: You’re able to cut

joinery with precision and rout decorative

profiles with ease. Our router table features

independently adjustable sliding fences and

a push bar that glides along a groove in the

tabletop. By mounting your router to an

acrylic base plate recessed into the table, you

can lift the router up and out conveniently to

change bits and make adjustments.

Instructions:

General: Cut all parts as you assemble the

project, using the Cut List as a guide and

adjusting as needed for fit. Use glue and the

appropriate length nails to attach all parts

unless otherwise specified.

Step 1: Build the fences. See Figure 1.

a. Drill a

⁄16-inch hole 1

⁄4 inches in from each

end of the slide bottom; center the holes

lengthwise as shown.

b. Attach two slide sides to the slide bottom

per Figure 1.

c. Drill a

⁄16-inch hole 2 inches in from each

end of the slide face.

d. Center and attach a slide face from side

to side on the slide assembly.

e. Insert a bar knob and elevator bolt into

the two holes in the slide face.

f. Attach the face, face spacers, and face

backs per Figure 1. This assembly attaches

to the slide face with the elevator bolt.

g. Repeat Step 1 to create a second fence.

Step 2: Build the push bar. Note: The push

bar is similar to the miter gauge on a table

saw. It’s built just like the sliding fences in

Step 1, except that the face is replaced with

a sacrificial board, and it has a guide that fits

in a groove in the tabletop. See Figure 2.

a. To make the base of the push bar, repeat

Steps 1b and 1d for the bar sides, bottom,

and face.

b. Using glue and screws, attach the guide

CUT LIST

Part Name Material Size (in inches) Quantity

(for fences)

slide sides 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 6 4

slide bottoms 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 6 2

slide faces 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 12 2

face backs 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x 1

⁄16 x 16 4

face spacers birch plywood

⁄4 x 1

⁄8 x 16 4

faces (for push bar) 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 16 2

bar sides 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 6 2

bar bottom 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 6 1

bar face 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 12 1

guide 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x

⁄4 x 12 1

sacrificial board 1 x 4, oak

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 16 1

(for top assembly)

sub-top MDF

⁄4 x 24 x 32 1

mid-top birch plywood

⁄4 x 24 x 32 1

front edging MDF

⁄4 x 4

⁄8 x 32 1

top MDF

⁄4 x 19

⁄8 x 32 1

base plate acrylic sheet

⁄4 x 9 x 9 1

(for stand)

side skirts 1 x 4, poplar

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 15

⁄2 2

skirts 1 x 4, poplar

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 21 2

legs 2 x 2, poplar 1

⁄2 x 1

⁄2 x 34

⁄4 4

stretchers 1 x 4, poplar

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 21 2

side stretchers 1 x 4, poplar

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 15

⁄2 2

shelf MDF

⁄4 x 18

⁄2 x 24 1

stile nailers 1 x 2, poplar

⁄4 x

⁄4 x 22

⁄2 6

bottom nailers 1 x 2, poplar

⁄4 x

⁄4 x 14 2

back bottom nailer

1 x 2, poplar

⁄4 x

⁄4 x 19

⁄2 1

sides birch plywood

⁄4 x 15

⁄2 x 24

⁄2 2

back birch plywood

⁄4 x 21 x 25

⁄4 1

fillers 1 x 2, poplar

⁄4 x 1

⁄2 x 15

⁄2 2

corner blocks 1 x 4, poplar

⁄4 x 3

⁄2 x 3

⁄2 4

TOOL LIST

• table saw

• power miter saw (or handsaw with miter box)

• router with

⁄4-inch straight bit

• power sander and various grits of sandpaper

• drill/driver and bits

• countersink bit

• 1

⁄2-inch hole saw attachment

• Kreg ProPack Pocket Hole System

• jigsaw

• chisel

• hammer

• bar clamps

• framing square

• straight edge

• tape measure

• laundry marker

• pencil

LOWE’S LIST

Lumber*

• 2 (6-foot-long) 1 x 2s, poplar

• 4 (3-foot-long) 2 x 2s, poplar

• 3 (6-foot-long) 1 x 4s, oak

• 2 (8-foot-long) 1 x 4s, poplar

• 1 (48- x 96-inch) sheet of

⁄4-inch-thick birch ply-

wood

• 1 (48- x 96-inch) sheet of

⁄4-inch-thick medium-

density fiberboard (MDF)

Hardware & Supplies

• 8 (

⁄16-inch x 18) bar knobs

• 8 (

⁄16-inch x 18) elevator bolts

• 1 (

⁄4- x 24- x 24-inch) clear acrylic sheet

• 1 box (1

⁄4-inch) Kreg pocket hole screws

(fine thread)

• 1 box (#18 x

⁄4-inch) wire brads

• wood glue

• 1 quart polyurethane

*Availability varies by market.

to the bottom of the push bar assembly so

that it is centered and perpendicular to the

face. Rounding the corners slightly will help

the guide slide smoothly in the tabletop.

c. Attach the sacrificial board to the bar face

using screws; with use, it will get chewed up

and need to be rotated and/or replaced.

Step 3: Build the top assembly. Note:

Before you begin assembling the top, you’ll

want to measure your router to verify that it

will fit through a 7-inch-square hole; if it will

not, modify the hole dimensions as needed.

See Figure 3.

a. Locate and draw centerlines on the sub-

top. Lay out a 7-inch square that’s centered

on the centerlines.

b. Drill an access hole within the square for

a jigsaw, and then cut out the 7-inch square

on the sub-top.

c. On the mid-top, measure and mark a line

12 inches in from the long back edge per

the layout detail. Measure and mark a line 9

inches in from each short edge as shown.

These are the centerlines of the material that

you’ll remove to form the slots.

d. Drill a 1

⁄4-inch hole at the intersections of

the 9- and 12-inch centerlines on the mid-top.

e. Use a framing square to locate the apex

on either side of the 1

⁄4-inch holes. Mark a

line that extends from the apex to the back

edge of the mid-top.

f. Cut along these lines, and then remove

the material to create the slots.

g. Locate the center of the 12-inch line on

the mid-top, and draw a line perpendicular to

it. Then lay out a 7-inch square centered on

the intersection of these lines.

h. Drill an access hole for a jigsaw within the

square, and then cut out the 7-inch square.

i. Attach the mid-top to the sub-top so that

the edges are flush.

j. Attach the front edging to the top of the

sub-/mid-top assembly so that the front

edges are flush.

k. Lay out the top as shown in the layout

detail in Figure 3 (as in Step 3c).

l. Repeat Step 3g on the top.

m. Drill a

⁄16-inch hole at the intersections of

the 9- and 12-inch.

n. Repeat Steps 3e and 3f to locate and cut

slots in the top for the elevator bolts.

o. Repeat Step 3h for the top.

p. Attach the top to the sub-/mid-top as-

sembly so that the sides and back edges

are flush; this creates a

⁄4-inch groove in the

top assembly for the push bar.

Step 4: Add the acrylic base plate. Note:

To make it easy to change bits, you’ll replace

the base plate on your router with a 9-inch-

square acrylic base plate that fits into the

recess in the top assembly. This allows you

to push the router and base plate up from

underneath to set the router on the router

table for bit changing. The most accurate

way to rout this recess is to use a template.

a. To make the template, first measure the distance from the cut-

ting edge of a

⁄4-inch straight bit to the outside edge of the router

base plate to determine its offset.

b. Then cut a plywood square to measure 9 inches plus twice the

router base offset plus 6 inches.

Locate and draw centerlines on the template. Then lay out a

square measuring 9 inches plus twice the offset, centered on these

centerlines.

d. Drill an access hole for a jigsaw within the square, and cut it out.

e. To rout the recess in the top, set a

⁄4-inch straight bit fitted in your

router for a

⁄4-inch-deep cut. Then center the template over the 7-

inch-square hole cut in the top assembly, and temporarily attach

with screws. Now rout out the material along the inner edges of the

template to create a

⁄4-inch-deep recess around the 7-inch hole.

Use a chisel to square up the corners of the routed area.

f. For a general-purpose base plate, use a drill/driver with a 1

⁄2-inch

hole saw attachment to cut a hole in the center of the acrylic plate.

Consider making several base plates with center holes cut in a

variety of sizes for different bits.

g. Remove the base plate from your router, and center it on the hole

in the acrylic base plate. Use a laundry marker to mark the mounting

hole locations of your base plate on the acrylic plate. Then drill the

appropriate size screw holes at these locations, countersinking these

holes so that the mounting screws will sit flush with the surface of

the acrylic.

h. Attach the acrylic base plate to your router with the mounting

screws, and test how the plate fits in the recess; trim as needed

with a chisel.

Step 5: Build the stand; see Figure 4.

a. Using a pocket hole jig, drill two holes for pocket hole screws in

each end of all skirt pieces and all stretchers.

b. Position a side skirt flush with the tops of a pair of legs, and then

assemble with glue and pocket hole screws. Position a side stretcher

so that its bottom edge sits 4 inches up from the base of the legs;

attach to the legs with glue and pocket hole screws. Repeat for the

other side assembly.

c. Position a skirt between the two side assemblies with top edges

flush, and attach with glue and pocket hole screws. Place a stretch

LEFT: The push bar

guides stock routing

and helps apply

even pressure.

RIGHT: The fences

adjust via elevator

bolts and grooves

in the top assembly.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JOHN O’HAGAN

Router Table

Simplify edges and joinery and expand your capabilities

by mounting your router in this table.

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

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Delta 36-322L Operations Instructions Page 5

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